Getting to Moldova – The Undiscovered European Country

Moldova is a tiny, land-locked country between Romania and Ukraine. While it has a long history of being passed between various stronger countries and powers, it finally gained its independence in 1991, with the dissolution of the Soviet Union. While the country is probably one of the poorest ones in Eastern Europe, its people are genuine and friendly, the country is beautiful, and there is no shortage of things to do. I spent several days in and around the capital city of Chisinau. If you are interested in checking out this great country, keep reading for some helpful hints about getting into the country. If you have already arrived, check out my post on how to spend your time in the country here. If you would like some advice on where to stay, check out my post here.

In my research, I came across ‘Marisha – your local friend in Chisinau’. She lives in London, but her parents are living between their apartment in Chisinau, and their farm outside of the city. She helps to rent out their apartment to tourists, along with tour offers, train station pick ups, etc. She also communicated in English, which I found much easier than trying to use my limited Russian to engage with her parents. (Side note: although  Moldova’s official language is Romania, most of the older generation speaks Russian. English was extremely  difficult to find, though occasionally younger locals would be eager to practice their skills).

Marisha’s parents purchased my train ticket out of the country (this is very difficult to do outside of the country, and my connection was somewhat necessary). She also arranged for them to pick me up at the train station, and give me a tour of the local winery (Milisti Mich -don’t miss it!).

While connections into the country are somewhat difficult, there are several options. The train trip from Odessa to Chisinau was beautiful, though the train was very old, with hard wood benches, and no western-style toilets on board. If you are lucky (or persuasive in Russian), you might find yourself on the soft-seat coach (coach number 5). Take lots of water and food if you choose this route. This is typically a five-hour trip, and takes you through the partially recognized zone of Transnistria (though you are not able to leave the train, it does provide a glimpse into the Russian/Ukrainian/Moldovan zone). Tickets for this train cost about 18USD one-way.

Inside of the train – soft seat coach (number 5).

Outside the train

Somewhere around the border between Ukraine and Moldova.

 

Dniester River

Nothing quite as beautiful as a sunset from a train.

Another option is to enter the country from Romania. This train is an adventure all by itself! The train is an overnight journey from Bucharest (Gara du Nord), and tickets cost about 50USD one-way. The journey takes about 13 and a half hours and usually runs on-time. There may not be food and water available onboard, so it is very wise to be prepared, especially on hot summer evenings! While the small rooms are far from luxurious, they are rarely fully-booked. It is very easy to get your own room, should you like. If it turns out that someone is sharing your room, and you would prefer to be alone, strike up a conversation with the friendly conductor. They are most often happy to point out which rooms are unbooked and will be happy to move you.

The most lengthy part of the journey from Romania to Moldova is when you cross the border (usually in the middle of the night). This is because the wheels of the train need to be changed from European gauge, to Russian gauge. (Thank you Stalin…while this was designed to slow down advancing armies, nowadays it is merely an annoyance). This can take upwards of 3-hours (however, this is budgeted into your 13.5 hour train journey time).

Chisinau does have an international airport, though flights are usually quite expensive, and it is difficult to get from the airport to the city centre (there are no transport links, and very few taxis at the airport – if you are able to even navigate one, as most drivers will stay away from tourists, due to potential language barriers).

Getting around the capital can be quite difficult. There are trams that run outside the train station, however they are very confusing to navigate, and their schedule changes based on the desires of the drivers. There are mini-buses that run through the city, but one must understand the routes, and where they would like to visit, as stops must be requested in advance (these are really more like a multi-person taxi service). The main areas of interest can be seen in a full day or two of walking. While taxis exist in the city, they do not cater to tourists, as drivers frequently do not speak English. If you manage to communicate where you would like to go, a ride around the centre should cost no more than 25 lei – about 5USD.

If you would like to travel throughout the country, and are comfortable doing so, it would be beneficial to rent a car. Transit links between cities and towns are sporadic and the language can be difficult to read, unless you speak Russian, Romanian, or Moldovan. If you are wanting to do day trips from Chisinau, there are several local tour companies that are willing to help you plan your trips (check out my post about Marishka’s parents and how they helped make my stay incredible!) There is a small population of students, and they are eager to help foreigners find their ways around the city and countryside. Most speak a limited amount of English, and are happy to give you a tour for a very reasonable price. Get in touch with one of several universities for help with this. (also: couch surfing.com has many hosts in and around Chisinau – even if you don’t want to spend the night, there are many users who are happy to meet up for a social event or local tour).