I wasn’t exactly looking forward to my day in Naples. I’d heard it was a dirty, petty-crime hot spot, and that there was little to do. I had heard that the locals were unfriendly at best, and the drivers and local pedestrians were in a constant competition to see who could hit who first. I figured that I would get in and get out, to my years-in-the-planning, final destination of the Amalfi Coast.
Upon my early morning arrival and brisk walk to my hostel, I saw a local pedestrian get hit by a car and then simply dust himself off and limp away, with a few (I can only assume) Italian swear words thrown in – welcome to Naples! The streets were littered with garbage and when I passed by a narrow side street, I saw a man throw a beer bottle at another man and then proceed to publicly urinate on a parked car (stick with me, I promise this gets better!)
With that arrival, I was seriously contemplating enjoying what I could from my hostel patio and not leaving its (relative) safety. Already at 29°c, and getting hotter, this seemed like a perfectly acceptable way to spend the day.
When I arrived at reception, I was greeted by a staff member who told me I should definitely help myself to breakfast, even though I had only arrived this morning. In her words, what was a piece of toast or cereal to them, and what was it to me? We continued to chat as she cleared up breakfast and she asked what my plans were.
Upon hearing about my morning walk (700 metres…), she laughed and told me that of course I couldn’t just stay in the hostel all day! And she proceeded to give me dozens of tips and interesting things to see and do in the city.
Really, the traveler in me wouldn’t allow myself to waste a day in a new city, so I took it upon myself to ‘do it all’. And here are the results. (If you are a little crazy like me and do this in one day, it can be done, but walking the route minus the furnicular to the castle and the metro ride from the end point back to the main train station, will be approximately 18kms – adjustments may need to be made for your travel needs and timeframe).
1. If you do nothing else in Naples, you MUST eat pizza.
But not any pizza. Though if a line is at the door and there are few tables, and it’s survived any length of time in Naples as a pizzeria, it’s probably good by anyone else’s standards. But if you really want The Best pizza in Naples, go to one of two places.
Da Michele is a pizzeria dating back at least 100 years (or a lot more depending who you ask.) This is most likely where the locals eat their pizza. It’s sparsely furnished, there are only bench-type seats and there’s basically no ‘table service’. But the pizza is incredibly delicious. They only have two kinds here – Margherita and Maranera – so if you need a bit more selection, go on to option two.
Da Michele is a little farther from the main tourist places, which makes it more or less appealing, depending what you’re looking for. Don’t be fooled by the ‘pizzeria da Michele’ located much closer to the main square. It’s not the same, and the pizza is noticeably less delicious.
Da Michele doesn’t take reservations, is only open after 7:30pm (until about midnight), and there is frequently a line up. Definitely worth a visit. Check them out at via Sersale, 13, or their (English language!) website here.
My favourite though, was Brandi’s Pizzeria. This one comes out on top for a few reasons. It’s right in the tourist area – about two blocks off the palace square (I know…usually any restaurants within a five block radius are absolutely off-limits…) but because Brandi’s is off to the side and then further, it’s down a tiny alley, creating the perfect mix of ‘out of the too-many-people area’ and ‘great location’.
Secondly, the selection! More choices than one could possibly try in a day, as well as classics, and those that sounded a little strange, but were most likely delicious. Do as the Italians do and drink beer with your pizza.
Their seating area is rather small and their hours are strange (12:30-3:30, and then 7:30-midnight), but they won’t kick you out if you’re seated by these times.
Finally, price! While not as cheap as Michele’s, it was very reasonable for its location. A pizza (easily feeding two people) was between 7-12€ and drinks were less than 5€.
They’re located at Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, 1/2, 80132 Napoli, Italy and their website can be found here.
The pizza funghi at pizzeria Brandi
2. On the subject of food, next comes this: try some gelato!
There is nothing better on a 30° day than a scoop of creamy, sweet gelato. Though nearly every restaurant, Cafe, pizzeria or shop will sell gelato, and all of them are passable, of the three I tried, you should check out Casa Infant at via Toledo 258, Napoli.
Right on the main tourist road taking you by the beautiful churches and castles, you won’t find a place to relax here, but you will find the creamiest, smoothest, most delicious gelato. About 20 different flavours a day are available. A small is more than enough for a portion and will cost you 3€.
3. Mid-afternoon snack at Renzo e Lucia
After you’ve toured the Elmo Castle, stop in at the unassuming restaurant. The view is absolutely spectacular, and the snack won’t completely break the bank. If you’re a backpacker on a budget, you can stop in for a glass of local wine for 7€, and sit and bask in the view all afternoon.
The menu is small but everything is fresh and well prepared. For those looking for a meal, be prepared to pay around 20€+.
4. Castle Elmo
One of the most visited castles in the city (there are four), and the only one with a small admission charge (5€). The castle has been turned into a museum/art gallery, but has retained most of its castle appearances with narrow passages, grandiose archways and small windows throughout.
Be sure to check out the view from the top of the castle (many others I spoke to told me that this was closed to tourists – but if you’re like me and accidentally take a wrong turn off the path, it’s an mistake worth making).
Unless you are very interested in medieval art and sculpture, or have the insatiable desire to walk through a 15th century castle, entering the castle could be skipped. The view from the restaurant (see #3) is as good (or better!) than that from the top of the castle, and your 5€ admission cost covers two bottles of water from the restaurant.
5. Walk Along viale Anton Dohrn
The Anton Dohrn path is a 1.2km long park along the water in Naples. In the late afternoon you’ll see plenty of tourists and locals alike, out enjoying the weather. The park has lots of shaded areas, playgrounds for children, and lots of small cafes and restaurants (many of which are licensed – mid-afternoon beverage, anyone?). It’s a great place to relax and enjoy some street musician entertainment in the heat of the day.
6. Churches! Churches! Churches!
But if popping into a bunch of churches isn’t your style, be sure to at least check out church of Gesu Nuovo. The unassuming stone exterior leads to a beautiful interior full of religious artifacts, beautiful icons and plenty of sculptures and paintings.
All churches in Naples are free and open to visitors. There are at least a dozen within a 2 kilometre area and all are easily accessible and beautiful, quiet places, even if you enter them to find a minute of solace from the sun and the heat of the day.
7. Waterfront Walk
Napoli has a beautiful boardwalk along the bay. Though it is busy at any time of day or night, the ideal time is between dinner and sunset. This is when the boardwalk fills with families, young couples, locals and tourists alike. Similar to the park from number 5, this walk provides an entertaining way of seeing the nightlife of Naples come to life.
The best part of the walk is between the Castel dell’ovo and the end of Antun Dohrn park (just over 1 kilometre long). Try and catch the sunset for a spectacular view!
8. Naples National Archeological Museum
This museum provides an excellent preview and history to Pompeii, so if this is on your list , a stop here would be most helpful! It has a massive collection of Roman artifacts and also, a section of the wall that once protected the city of Naples.
Admission is 13€; make sure to ask if any rooms are closed, and if they are, a discount can be asked for (though is not always received).
9. Pompeii
Though not technically in Naples, Pompeii is frequently traveled to from Naples. Take the circumvisuviana express train to avoid overcrowded and pickpocket friendly local metros. This will cost you 8€, as opposed to 4€, but will bring peace of mind, in a quiet, air-conditioned train car!
English tours and audio guides are available at the grounds. A tour with a guide is highly recommended and takes about 2 hours. Admission with tour is 13€.
Have you spent any time in Naples? What else would you add to this list?
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